Reserve it Now!!! [Magic Prop] – Elivebuy® Ultra-Compact 3200mAh Portable Charger Lipstick-Sized External Battery Power Bank with Suction Cup Mount for iPhone 6 Plus 5s 5c 5 4S, Galaxy S5 S4 S3 Note 3, 4, Nexus 4, HTC One M8, Nokia Lumia 520, 1020 and Other Smartphones – Blue
The Reserve it Now!!! [Magic Prop] – Elivebuy® Ultra-Compact 3200mAh Portable Charger Lipstick-Sized External Battery Power Bank with Suction Cup Mount for iPhone 6 Plus 5s 5c 5 4S, Galaxy S5 S4 S3 Note 3, 4, Nexus 4, HTC One M8, Nokia Lumia 520, 1020 and Other Smartphones – Blue is another excellent product being offered with an exceptionally affordable price, thus, making this item remarkable value for money!
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Portable Battery Features
- Not Only a Power Bank,but also a magic stand for your smartphone,perfectly pair with your iphone 6/6plus or any other smartphone
- This nice little unit is an ideal gift for X’mas/Birthday/Wedding/Party
- Slim Lipstick-Sized Design that fits easily into small bags and backpacks
- Upgraded with the Samsung Grade A cells and premium microchips ensure reliability and safety. Charge time: 3-4 hours via AC 0.8 amp adapter (not included).
- Package includes: 1 x 3200mAh Power Bank; 1 x Micro USB Cable (charging for power bank), 1x User manual
Product Description
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Read More: Please follow the link for the full – Technical Details.
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Customer Reviews
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Harbor Freight Solar Panels to Portable Battery Pack
Harbor Freight Solar Panels to Portable Battery Pack
Another excellent adventure! Truly creative thinking! I know “Go Power” has
some really slick solar set ups. When it comes to solar try to save up your
pennies and get a really good set up. Especially if you intend on long term
boondocking. They make those slick suitcase type portable solar panels that
you can carry around and follow the sunlit spots when you are under the
trees and “Go Power” now has those super thin, super flexible adhesive
panels with lots of power. I know the “Gone With The Wynns” YouTube channel
had a video about the new super thin, super light panels they stuck up on
the roof. So many possibilities. Did you have “Doglips” under sedation when
you made this video? lol… I could hear his ears flapping there at the
end… : ) As always, I love seeing new videos from you! And you’ve always
got an invite to my big old driveway…
That’s a very cool looking RV from France……they must be made in Europe?
Never seen one before. A video of the interior would be neat to see.
Great job, here is an equation you should become familiar with. Watts over
Volts = Amp Hours. So your Harbor freight panels together are 45 watts over
12 volts = a charging rate of 3.75 amps an hour. A 6 volt Deep Cycle
battery is rated at 200 amp hours, two of them together would be 400 amp
hours. Car batteries are rated at 100 amp hours, two of them would only be
200 amp hours. The way you have it hook up is ok but you would be better
off with another battery, car or deep cycle. That quick jumper is filled
with a few small batteries and capacitors to create enough power for a
minute or two to start a car but not to provide power for a long period of
time.
Your harbor freight controller can not be used with another battery
charger, it will stop charging when it see a 13.? volts from the other
charger.
I use these panels on both my RVs and these panels do work good in the
shade. On my small RV I can watch a small TV (10 amp draw) for five hours
(with ten hours of Day light) and still have a partially charged battery at
sunset. At the end of the day there would be 88 amps left in a 100 amp hour
battery (at some point the voltage drops below 10 volts). Important to know
in a RV because your Refrigerator needs 10 volts to operate on gas,
otherwise it will shut down. Here’s a Tip, Do as you did use a second
battery.
Good job! You are a step in the right direction! Good charging & good luck!
There’s so much to understand about these things….it boggles my mind.
they where right you cant really mismatch solar panels sizes by more then
30%.it would just pull down your larger panel. Harbor Freight are panels
are overpriced and underpowerd you can pick up 100 watters off ebay for
less all day long and get far better power. just pick up another 100 watt
and wire it in parallel to your 95 watt. you probly will need a bigger
charge controller and some thicker wire being you will be increasing the
amps.
as for the batterys modern g29 12 volt are 120 amp hrs they used to be 100
amp hrs so they got better. 6 volts have thicker plates and have longer
life with care but if your on a budget and need to go on the cheap 12volts
work fine.
You must be lucky,, my instructions for my set up said to cover the solar
panels before doing any wiring as so not to damage the controller or short
out the panels..
You make me so proud!! Your such an independent woman ;-) I just have a few
quick questions for you, if I may? I won’t ask your age I just want to know
what age bracket are you in? You’re very handy. And what did or do you do
to support your RV lifestyle?
What a great job you did figuring out how to get your HF panels working
again. Hats off to you. The battery pack is about the best and most
versatile use for your HF panels, so you did well with that choice. I use
a portable 12 v battery pack for a 100 different uses. You have portable
power in your hands where ever you go. Your HF controller isn’t much for
direct use with an AC/DC converter other than light charging at best. It
just doesn’t produce enough usable power.
Only into 6 months full time solar has me cringing when I see how your
panels were mounted on top of your motorhome. They should be mounted on
channels with air flow underneath not mounted flush to the roof surface. A
tilt able bracket is very easy to do and would increase your solar output
about 50%. Especially in winter when the sun is low. Any shading even to
one solar cell can shut the panel down, so solar makes you rethink your
camping options. Think trees are bad!….:) I’ve had no problems getting
full output from my 3-100 watt panels running them portable and have camped
mostly in the mountains the past 3-4 months. If I had unlimited funds I’d
install 3-400 watts on top of my RV and use that as secondary power and use
the portable panels as primary. I don’t, so I have to maximize what I
have. Having the ability to move my panels makes camping so much easier.
I can have shade and still produce power. Knowing where the sun tracks is
becoming second nature now that I’ve been doing it the past 6 months. I
was back in my home state of WA for a couple weeks and it was like this
sucks. At best 2 hrs of sun each day under all the trees.
. Who ever disconnected your HF panels were full of BS. They could have
been combined with your 95 watt panel without any problem. The HF panels
are such old technology and poor output, they are really only good as a
trickle charger or small power source. There wouldn’t be any problem if
you ran the HF controller outside the cabinet by 3-5 ft Get some 12-14
gauge wire and slice into the lines coming off your panels. Heck, you
could cut a $2 extension cord up and use that zip cord. Buy some wire
splices or wire nuts and move it where ever you need to, so you have easy
access. You have plenty of room to add another couple panels next to your
95 watt panel and the controller to handle another 300 watts, so go for
it. You need to add another battery bank, so that’s the first project.
Great job with the video.
AGM batteries are sealed maintenance free and can be laid on their side (I
have a small one under the seat on my moped for the electric start motor).
They cost a bit more and if you use them in lieu of normal wet cell (where
you have to worry about watering the batteries) you need to get a charge
controller than knows what type of battery you are using (normally in a
setup menu if what I’m reading is correct). You have more solar
experience. I live in Germany and have been studying the solar stuff deep
enough to know how to build my own solar panels from a box of solar cells
(plenty of vids online). You’ve figured out the charge controller can be
fried if it isn’t compatible with the panels combined output in
watts/voltage. You want to cover solar panels with cardboard when working
on them in the daytime to ‘shut them off’. Good luck. I’m gonna be trying
to do something similar to you only (hopefully) a little less nomadic.
Enjoy.
You are an amazing woman. Cool idea. I get a lot of useful information from
your videos. I installed some new day/night shades yesterday. The ones that
came with my motorhome were just night shades and made of some kind of
cardboard type material. I am planning on solar at some point. I’ve
upgraded my batteries to six volt Trojan T105s. Those new 100 watt flexible
solar panels are the ones I’ll probably get. After that a 2000 watt
inverter. Best of Luck on your next project / adventure.
awesome at least you are level headed enough to know your limits and skill
sets , I have seen to many people (men mostly) who embarked on home owner
projects using only their egos end up in tragedy ( career retired FF here
;) ) yes I agree diversified energy is the future and something I have
believed in since the mid 80, s not as a replacement but an supplement.
keep the videos coming you inspire more than you know and that is a good
thing and for Pete sake please be careful up their on the roof I installed
a few attachment points for a safe lanyard when working a loft. tc and be
safe :)
Those Harbor Freight panels should be able to be wired into your
regulator…electrons are electrons even if they are from a different
panel. I have a 120 watt go power panel and regulator, no issues at all and
keeps me boon docking here in the Pacific Northwest!
Maybe check this out, they have a lot of variants:
http://sunelec.com
For my upcoming RV I plan to use a 24V system. 4 x 6 volt golf cart
batteries, a 24V 3kW inverter, and a Morningstar TriStar 60 Amp MPPT Solar
Charge Controller. All solar panels will have the same power rating and
connected in series.
I am not aware of any problems with connecting all of the solar panel
together is they output similar voltages other than the rating of the
charge controller. It seems to me that using a high quality charge unit at
a rating higher than you will ever need would be best for future expansion
as well as improved reliability.
Such as buying a 100 watt panel now and buying a second 100 watt panel in a
few months.
And if you install an additional plug, you could get one of those folding
2-panel solar kits and charge in those sunny spots between the shade trees.
Just make sure Toto is not leashed near them.
I have posted one of the best solar sites I have found. It is a long read,
but they author has been doing solar for a long time, and it is worth it.
You already seem to have enough technical ability to understand the
concepts. Give it a look see when you get a chance. My 300 watt starter
system is freestanding, but it’s for my TT. Prices have come down on
panels and charge controllers. Hope it helps. Impressed with your get
after it attitude and stick to it work ethic! Love the tall pines!
http://www.jackdanmayer.com/rv_electrical_and_solar.htm#Installers
the Harbor Freights setup dos not make over 1 amp
at max the Harbor Freights can make 4 map hrs on a good day
so they are trash dump them and install a good panel
go on CL and look for used look at the amp out put and you want 17v
units so they all work
if i meat you one day i well help you install any thing you want … look
at my vidoes
You did great.. I have a single 15 watt solar in my Van to charge my power
pack and then I run off the power pack, it has a 400 watt inverter and two
12 volt outlets and a light and air pump. Just use the harbor frieght
controler for charging the power pack, and use the pack to run things
because it has the battery. But you did it the right way…Good Job.
I hope that you get resources to equip your RV with everything you want and
need. Then, I hope that you get all the time and resources you need to
make more beautiful videos. Best wishes! :)
Great video, I like that you jump in and tackle any project. I have just
started view you videos and have gotten some good info.
you sure know your stuff!
About your plans to add two more batteries Miss E, you probably would be
better off waiting until the one’s you got need replacing and getting 4 new
ones all at once. You really don’t want to combine or wire together new and
old batteries, it’s not recommended by battery mfg.. What that does is
reduce the performance you get from the new ones and shortens their usable
life. That increases the cost of what you get for what you pay. Like
getting less miles per gallon when it can be avoided. You might also keep
an eye out for a sale when your ready or close to being so and stretch you
bucks that way. You probably do that already.
I take it those batteries came with your coach? Is there a date marked on
them? Sometines they marked so you know how old they are or when they were
installed. You should look for that, that would be good to know. Three
years of service from golf cart batteries is your goal, longer is gravy.
replacing them in two years tells you, something is wrong, your system
needs more panel /s or your bank is not big enough for your needs. One of
those three. When your batteries need replacing is, #1 when they start
absorbing the charge slower, less effeciently. You’ll start to notice on
similar days of weather and sun conditions the charge/float light will take
longer to come on. In other words, with new bat’s the charge controller
will start to float the batteries by 1 of 2 pm and 3 years later floating
starts at 4 pm. That tells you that are taking longer to absorb the charge.
#2 If you check the voltage of your bank before you go to bed after
turning everything off and it drops more than .1 volt over night when
nothing is on, your bat’s are starting to not hold their charge or drain
faster when under a load, that is inferior performance. You’ll know it’s
time to replace them when they can’t keep up with your needs.
I am impressed with you do it yourself attitude great job